Quick updates

The Water Bill:  I got a water bill Monday. My first thought was, "oh no! They came when no one was here, so they couldn't read the meter! Here we go again!" But, after looking carefully at the bill a few times, I find it is a replacement for the 400,000+ CFA one. They are charging me the minimum amount for February. When I pay, I will ask when the meter reader is likely to come by so that someone can be here.

Dorcas:  Although I spied Dorcas and Kefas holding hands last Tuesday when we returned from Spring Break, that relationship may have run its course. For the past few days, it has been Prince who has been following her everywhere. That is not really new: he has long been a rival for her affections, but he seems to be the only one paying her court this week.

Holidays

 I am writing this on April 27, Independence Day here in Togo. I thought it was a good day to go over some of the holidays that have been observed and celebrated here over the past months. 

Probably because of its history as a French colony, Togo celebrates many of the same holidays as France. It makes for an interesting mix of celebrating history and observing traditional Catholic holy days. 

The first holiday that I experienced here was La Toussaint on November 1. I wrote a separate post about my activities on that day. Although devout Catholics may have gone to mass, the people I encountered seemed to make no change in their routine. Schools were closed, of course, and I assume government offices were as well.

From what I saw, Christmas was also fairly low-key here in Vogan. Hammer's family had a Christmas tree and opened gifts in the morning. The rest of the day and much of the night was spent working. Apparently fufu is a staple of Christmas dinner, because the machine ran constantly that day. People had to wait their turn, sometimes for 20 or 30 minutes. Those of the household who were not working on fufu spent the day preparing for the children's Christmas party at church the next day. Joycelyn, Dela, Solange, Patrick, and Viviane cooked and prepared treat bags for the kids. I assisted with the latter project. During the party, the children sang; we took their pictures; and gave them a meal and the treat bags.

In Lomé the holiday was more visible. I saw billboards advertising Christmas sales and Christmas items on shelves in the stores. 

New Year's Eve for the mission means a vigil service in the church. This year the government imposed a 9:00 p.m. curfew because of CoVid, so the service was cut short. We finished at 10:00 instead of going past midnight. 

Valentine's Day went unnoticed in Vogan, but the day after was a Tuesday, so I was in Lomé. Le Champion, a grocery store, had observed the holiday. I don't recall seeing a lot of merchandise, but there was candy and this sign on the door.

The March holiday? Not St. Patrick's Day--I saw absolutely no sign of that--but International Women's Day, March 8. I knew that it received more observance here in Africa than in the US. I was in Burkina Faso on that day in 2020. It fell on a Sunday, so the country observed it on Monday with closed offices, etc. Here it doesn't merit a day off. In fact, I believe I was here on March 8 in 2021, and I have no memory of anything happening. This year, however, it fell on a Tuesday. That meant a trip to Lomé. We got pulled over at one of the checkpoints on the way and the soldiers or policemen wished us a happy Woman's Day and let us go. I found out on Wednesday that the school had marked the holiday. There was an all-school assembly in which the directors pointed out the importance of schooling for girls as much as for boys. (Although school is compulsory here, in practice, girls sometimes do not go to school). The other manifestation of the holiday is in clothes. I saw three women wearing dresses made of fabric that had "8 mars, Journée Internationale de la Femme" woven into the design.

That brings us to today, Independence Day. My neighbors and I discussed the holiday this morning as I was heading to Hammer's for breakfast. They told me that people celebrate by eating and dancing and asked how we celebrated our similar holiday in the US. Dela told me that, in the past, the school children in Vogan have marched in the streets, but that is not happening this year. Along the main road, several of the business are sporting a small Togolese flag, which looks quite festive. Since I was not able to take a picture of that--I need both hands on the wheel when I drive the main road, I will add a picture of the Togolese and Christian flag at the mission school.

The French teacher reminded the children in 7th and 9th grades Monday that they were in the last week in April and that there was the possibility for holidays in May and early June. Again, from the French system,  holidays include Labor Day on the 1st; Ascension Day on the 26th; and Pentecost on June 6. Note the word "possibility." So far here, other than Christmas and Easter, holidays have been announced to me the day before. I found out that today was a holiday yesterday afternoon before I went home from school. La Toussaint was announced to me in a similar fashion. So it will be interesting to see what, if any, days off come my way next month!

Kindergarten Moving Day

 Tuesday, April 19, was not only the first day of school after Spring Break, it was moving day for the kindergarten. I made a point of arriving early so that I wouldn't miss anything. Most of the children come with older siblings or neighbors and so arrive before the official start time at 8:00, so I made a point to get there at 7:00. A few children still beat me. They were waiting on the stoop in front of the church (the old classroom).

Before eight o'clock, Tata started the moving process, enlisting the help of some of the older elementary school boys. They carried tables, chairs, the dishpans, footstools, etc.

Once most of the children arrived, they went over in a group. At first they walked, and then they began to run.

Tata and the older children set up the chairs and tables, and the kindergarteners sat down.

Before we could start the day, word came from the director that Hammer wanted to pray for the room and the children before they entered the classroom. So we hurriedly moved the chairs, tables, and children out to wait for Hammer. That was quite the wait, but he eventually arrived, said a few words, and prayed.

So, once it was official, we moved back in. One thing the children are happy about is that the toys have been moved to the second room in the building. They have not played with them for a few months now. I, on the other hand, am not happy about that, because they do not share well.

The rooms are not perfect. They are hot! And you know that if I'm saying that, it could be unbearable for some of you. The fence behind the building is only about a foot away from the wall. The plan is to move that back so that there will be room for air to flow through on that side. 

In addition, the blackboard is very high. Tata wanted lines going across at the top. She was going to climb onto a stool to make them, but I stopped her and offered to do the job. I was on my tiptoes and stretching to get it done. The children can write on it, but the smallest are writing at the very bottom of the board.

Improvements will be made, I am sure. The important thing right now is that the kindergarten is at home at last!

Water

 I was just thinking yesterday morning (Tuesday) that I should probably refresh the water in my buckets. I was even thinking that I could just empty them, since we were now getting rain frequently and so there was no need for the water company to cut us off.

I'm glad I didn't follow through on my thought, especially since I could easily have emptied the buckets in the morning and refilled them in the afternoon. The water was turned off yesterday morning. It is still off now--Wednesday afternoon. We are thankful that the school cooks were able to get enough water to fix yesterday's lunch and that there is no lunch on Wednesdays. We pray that service will be restored before tomorrow. I have a bit of selfishness in that prayer. Thursday is my laundry day, and I would like to have clean clothes!

I don't cook at home, as you know, so I just need water for washing and for flushing the toilet. I took a bucket bath this morning, and so now I have about half of my water left. Tomorrow I may have to pick and choose which parts to wash.

Dela said that she would have Viviane fetch me some water. The boys went and got some for that house. I don't know where they go, but I caught them on the way back and got their picture.

Driving

 

Even in the best of circumstances I have a love-hate relationship with driving. I like the idea of driving; and grew up believing that there was a family talent for driving. In practice, I am not always fond of it. I delayed learning to drive as long as I could. By the time I registered for Driver’s Ed at school, I was too old to get the Driver’s Ed permit other students had. I had to take the test for the regular Learner’s Permit. Once I completed the Driver’s Ed course, taken during the summer between my junior and senior years of high school, I put off getting my license. I got it in November of that year. I remember, because my friend Jan had to get hers that week before her learner's permit expired on her 18th birthday. We left school during third period and walked to the license branch to get the licenses. Even with my license, I didn’t really start driving regularly until the summer after my freshman year of college.

I tell you all that to acknowledge that I do have issues with driving. However, driving here in Togo is such a challenge that I believe I would dread it even without my emotional driving baggage. The two complicating factors:  road conditions and other drivers!

On the open road, from here to Aneho or Lomé, the road conditions are good. One can access both by the main paved road that runs through Vogan. From the corner of Hammer’s street with the main road, a left turn leads to Aneho, a right to Lomé. The road is a highway, but it is occasionally punctuated by speed bumps, warnings of speed bumps to come, and a bad railroad track. There are villages, towns, and police checkpoints which also reduce speed.

However, traffic and other drivers detract from the otherwise pleasant experience. Much of the traffic consists of motorcycles. Motorcycle drivers also take advantage of their size to go to the right or the left of whatever they are passing (a speed bump or something in town), or even to go the wrong way! Naturally, they normally go slower than cars so they have to be passed. If there happen to be some in the oncoming lane, and a car decides to pass them, a game of chicken ensues. The driver of a car has to remain vigilant.

Once you arrive in Lomé, especially, the motorcycles are joined by two different types of three-wheeled vehicles. One is a passenger carrier and is used as a taxi. The other, an Apsonic, can carry passengers, but is frequently used for freight. These modes of transport are also slower and so must be passed. Of course, in the city, with the increased traffic, passing can be difficult. It is not always possible to get all the way into the left lane, so you create a lane for yourself in the middle.

This is a fancy version of the three-wheeled vehicle used as a taxi in Lomé. Hammer's friend or relative (I never know which) got this back in December and brought it by the house to show it off.

Two different apsonics that I saw this morning. The one on the left is hauling logs. The one on the right had several people in the back, but they got down and away before I was able to take the picture. 

In both cities and small towns, drivers frequently stop and park on the side of the road.

Small town traffic is complicated by road conditions. Most of the streets are unpaved. They are dusty and sandy in the dry season and muddy or under water in the rainy season. In all seasons, they are filled with potholes.

I am mostly comfortable with the road from my house to Hammer’s and then from his house to the school. The drive is a bit like a video game as one dodges the worst of the potholes or mud holes. Driving to and in Lomé is still an ordeal for me. I have never driven the whole trip. I can drive there and to our first stop, but then I surrender the steering wheel to whoever is with me.

To see videos of driving, both on the main road and in Vogan, follow this link. I was the passenger, not the driver, when they were taken. That tells you that they show the way back to Vogan!

What I buy

 

My sister recently asked me: “If Dela fixes all your meals, why do you need to go to the grocery store?” I can say, just as did Sir Edmund Hilary: “because it is there.” My Tuesday trips with Karen to Lomé provide me with a welcome break from Vogan and time to visit with a colleague and friend. Now, they also include the Ewe lesson (which they always have; I just didn’t always go to them). They also include visiting stores, usually a grocery store among them. I don’t always buy a lot, and the food purchases are few, but I always have something that I need, mostly in terms of toiletries and cleaning supplies. I thought you might be interested in what I buy and in the brands of goods that I have encountered here.

Food and drink:

I don’t buy a lot of food, of course, but it is nice to have something that I can quickly fix and eat at home. Being out after dark causes me anxiety, so I don’t take dinner at Dela’s. I have some canned ravioli, a bag of rice and some beans, spaghetti, a jar of Ragu, and some jam. To be honest, all of that is unopened and unused (although I did heat and eat one can of ravioli), but its presence reassures me. Foodstuffs that I buy and actually consume include cookies and sodas. I find a bit of sugar at the end of the day a great substitute for an actual meal! 

The soda I buy is Chap brand. Coke products are available here, both in bottles and cans. However, they are more expensive than the local Chap brand, which is around 300 CFA per can. I buy three different flavors: cola, limonade (Sprite-like) and cocktail de fruits (an orange-pineapple flavor). A can will usually last me two days.

I also buy water. The water here is treated, but inconsistently. Hammer and Dela and Karen all have water filters. Hammer's filters all the water in the house, but Karen's sits on her counter like a big Brita pitcher. I just haven't got around to looking for one, so I continue to buy water.

I mentioned that I have a jar of Ragu. Other American brands that I have seen include Quaker Oats, Pringles, and Doritos. For other things, I often buy Belle France brand. It is reasonably priced and, so far I have found them to be tasty.

Toiletries

Of course, I use body wash, hand soap, shampoo, toothpaste, and dental floss. I try to be open to experimenting with other brands, but it doesn't really pay to get hooked on a particular one, because the inventory may vary from one store to the next, or even one visit to the next at the same store. For example, during my first shopping trip, I purchased some body wash. I really liked it a lot, but was not able to find it the next two times I needed it. So I fell back on the familiar brand name of Dove. I am not sure if the scents are the same here as they are in the States--I don't buy Dove brand there--but I'm not really fond of the ones they have here.

 

As for hand soap, I could not find any foaming liquid, such as I buy at home, so I opted for a familiar brand of bar soap: Palmolive. I had never seen this variety before, but decided on it anyway. Once I got home I found that, once again, I don't like the scent.

When it comes to oral hygiene, I am kind of a brand-follower: Crest for toothpaste and Oral-B Glide dental floss. I was delighted to find both of those items here. Dental floss is on the list for the next shopping trip, and I hope I am able to find the Glide again. I also found Crest--not my usual variety, but that's okay. I show you both sides of the tube so that you can see something rather common here--Arabic on labels. 

Other toothpaste brands I have seen include Colgate, Close-Up, and AquaFresh. Hammer and Dela have a local (?) brand in their bathroom: Charlie. I thought it an interesting name for a toothpaste, but never tried it.

Paper products

Whereas at home, a roll of Bounty or Brawny serves for both paper towels and napkins, here, napkins are easier to find than paper towels. I have no particular brand loyalty, but one brand that I bought came with a free sample of laundry detergent, which was cool.

My allergies have finally forced me to begin purchasing tissues. Again, I am rather picky about those. I absolutely hate the ones that include lotion. I was glad to see Kleenex brand here. Since the first time I saw them it was a package of purse-sized packs, I purchase them this way, rather than in a big box. Karen picked these up for me, because I couldn't go to Lomé the week that I needed them. I probably would not have chosen the balsam variety, but they are okay.

Not really a paper product, but related to Kleenex: allergy medicine. I brought some with me, but, once I ran out, I had to consult nurse Karen as to what to get. I don't even know what I use at home--the generic version of either Allegra or Claritin. She looked them both up and, when we went to the pharmacy (this kind of thing is not sold in grocery stores here), asked which one they had. My sister recently sent me a package that included a few bottles of the same thing that I get here. The pharmacy people probably would be shocked at the size of the bottle--60 pills.

Papier hygiénique: the first time I needed this staple, I let myself be guided by Karen, who also needed it. I find that I like her choice. Notice:  it's 3-ply! It comes not in squares, but in rectangles and lasts a long time. I heartily recommend it, if you're ever here.

Bug Spray I am somewhat paranoid about bugs, so I have three different cans of bug spray, plus two different brands of insect repellent. One of the repellents comes from Spain. I therefore can't read the label very well. It claims to provide three-way protection, but I am not sure how. For the room spray, I have one for flying bugs (mainly mosquitoes) and one for crawling bugs (spiders) Note the brands:

Yes, I found Raid, which is comforting. I can't decide if the can on the right, RAD, is trying to capitalize on the Raid name or not. If it is, the company disguises it well with the subtitle:  Read A Dream. Don't ask me what that has to do with mosquitos, but someone sees a connection! It is a local brand, and, Karen says, is quite good at killing mosquitos and not leaving a chemical odor or side effects.

Laundry items: The final thing on my list of items I purchase. I buy fabric softener and detergent. I think the fabric softener is the Belle France brand. I just noticed today that I have run out. I have purchased three different brands of detergent: Mouss or Majix, and Oxo. The latest is pictured below. As with the toothpaste, the writing on the box is also in Arabic.

The interesting thing is the picture in the corner: it is detergent targeted to washing by machine and not by hand. Viviane is still doing my laundry by hand. Again, Karen picked this up for me. There was no detergent geared for hand-washing. But that's okay. The machine detergent works fine for hand-washing. However, the hand-washing version can harm a washing machine. 

So, there you have it. Things that I consider essential and that I purchase as I need them. 

Ele agbe!

 I learned the title sentence in my first Ewe lesson with Karen and Peter a few weeks ago. It was the conclusion to a story about a duck who ran away:  "he is alive." I asked Peter if I could say that sentence about Jesus, and he said yes, so I say it to you. That may seem a funny question, but Ewe is a language that gives great importance to context, so it is possible that a word used in one context might not work in another.

Anyway, Happy Easter to everyone. I thought I would report on our service here. Everything was pretty much the same, except that the sermon did use the first few verses of Matthew 28 as its base text. What was different was the appearance of white: the tradition here is to wear white clothing on Easter. Not a lot of people followed that. I saw maybe half a dozen white dresses and one little boy all in white. The other was that the musical group sang a familiar song as their special before the sermon. 

After the service, we had a caravan of four vehicles and several people on foot as we traveled to two different homes to visit ladies who had not been able to attend church for a while due to ill health. The first one was quite overwhelmed and shed several tears at our being there.

May your services be as great a blessing to you! Ele agbe!

Just in case the video above doesn't cooperate:  You can watch it and another one from today here.